One of the first things people associate with Scotland – alongside bagpipes and whisky – is tartan, the classic Scottish check. It is regarded as a symbol of Scottish identity. Traditionally woven from wool into an intricate check pattern, tartan is used in clothing and textiles of all kinds. Originally, tartan cloth was dyed with natural pigments from native plants and was usually available in only a handful of colours. Today, thanks to the development of chemical dyes, there is an enormous variety of colours and patterns.
The Origins of Tartan
A fragment of cloth found in a clay pot near Falkirk is one of the earliest pieces of evidence for checked fabric in Scotland. Now known as the Falkirk tartan, the fragment dates back to around 250 AD and is held today at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh.
It remains unclear, however, exactly when tartan as we know it today first emerged. It is generally believed that the fabric only became widespread in the 16th century, when it was worn by Highland communities to identify different Scottish clans.
The famous fragment of the Glen Affric tartan also dates from the 16th century. It was discovered during forestry work in a peat bog in Glen Affric – west of Inverness – and is considered the oldest surviving piece of a Scottish tartan. Its pattern lives on to this day, including in our lambswool blanket in the Glen Affric tartan.
The earliest known uniform tartan is that of the Royal Company of Archers, designed around 1713. Three surviving pieces of this uniform still exist, including a jacket on display at Glamis Castle, 14 miles north of Dundee. In 1789, this uniform tartan was succeeded as the regimental tartan by the Black Watch tartan.
The Great Kilt
The modern kilt descends from the féileadh mòr, or Great Kilt. This large rectangular piece of tartan cloth was folded by hand, wrapped over the shoulder, and fastened anew each time it was worn with a heavy leather belt. The Great Kilt was a remarkably versatile garment, perfectly suited to life in the Highlands. Thanks to its length and woollen material, it doubled as a blanket, cloak and rain cover all in one – ideal for sleeping outdoors or travelling through Scotland's rugged landscape.
Tartans and the Clans
Historically, a Scottish clan was a social community, particularly in the Highlands. Members of a clan shared a common ancestor, usually carried the same surname, and were bound together by loyalty, land, and a clan chief. The history of the Scottish clans can be traced back to the Middle Ages. Originally, they were extended families who lived and worked together, supporting and protecting one another. This created a strong sense of identity, belonging and loyalty. Although understood as a family unit, clans also included people seeking protection, servants, and allied sub-groups with no direct blood relation. The word itself comes from the Gaelic clann, meaning "children" or "descendants".
Scottish clans still exist today, though their political and social role has changed considerably. The historical system of clan territories and private armies came to an end in the 18th century, following the Jacobite Rising of 1745. Today, clans live on as worldwide family associations and cultural communities. Many clan names, such as MacDonald, Campbell, Fraser, Gordon or Stewart, are known around the globe.
Tartans from Regions and Landscapes
Not every tartan belongs to a clan. There are also district tartans representing regions, university tartans for academic institutions, regimental tartans, and tartans designed specifically for particular anniversaries or organisations.
District tartans echo the colours of a particular region – from purple heather moors and green valleys to grey rock and the deep blue of Scotland's lochs and lochans (lakes and small lakes), or the yellow of gorse. Two examples:
Isle of Skye: A very popular pattern in muted, natural tones inspired by the colours of the Scottish Isle of Skye. The tartan was designed and registered in 1992 by an Australian woman whose ancestors came from Skye, and who lives there herself today. Its colours reflect those of the island, often called the "Misty Isle".
Lennox: One of the earliest historically documented district checks, originating from a region in west-central Scotland (16th century). It is regarded as both a clan and a district tartan. The name derives from the Lennox region, which historically encompassed the valley of the River Leven, Loch Lomond, present-day Dunbartonshire, and parts of Stirlingshire, Renfrewshire and Perthshire. Lord Darnley, husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, held the title "Earl of Lennox".
The Lennox tartan is considered a regional tartan. Regional tartans are well suited, for example, to people who wish to express their connection to a particular landscape or their Scottish heritage without belonging to a specific clan.
Regimental Tartans
Another significant group is formed by the tartans of Scottish regiments. Over the course of their history, many famous military units developed their own check patterns, which are still worn with pride today. The best known include:
- Black Watch – today one of the most popular tartans in the world, no longer used exclusively in a military context. Read more about the regiment's history at the Black Watch Museum.
- Royal Stewart – often granted as an honorary pattern for pipers of certain regiments, such as The Royal Scots.
- Gordon – the traditional pattern of the 92nd Gordon Highlanders regiment.
- Sutherland Highlanders – a variant of the Black Watch pattern worn by the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, now used by the Royal Regiment of Scotland.
And many more besides. These regimental tartans combine Scottish tradition with military history and are frequently used in modern clothing as well.
University Tartans
University of Edinburgh Tartan: Founded in 1583, the University of Edinburgh only commissioned its own tartan in 2007. It was designed by Gordon Nicolson, using blue, red, white and black threads inspired by the university's crest. The design is protected corporate property, used for kilts, scarves and blankets. The tartan is a symbol of affiliation with the university, though it is not an exclusive official dress whose use is legally restricted.
University of St Andrews: The tartan design of the University of St Andrews is based on two characteristic patterns: that of Clan Kennedy (Bishop James Kennedy founded St Salvator's College in 1450) and that of the Earl of St Andrews. Its colours represent the golf courses (green), the sand of the beaches (gold) and the sea (blue). The tartan was designed by Kinloch Anderson, a leading supplier of traditional Scottish dress. The design dates from 2004 and was created by alumna Deirdre Kinloch Anderson OBE (MA 1961), who serves as a director of the company.
The Burns Check
Robert Burns was born on 25 January 1759 in Alloway and died at the young age of 37 in Burns House on Irish Street, Dumfries. Baron Marchand of the Edinburgh firm George Harrison & Co. felt it fitting that one of Scotland's greatest national poets should have his own check pattern. The design incorporates the black-and-white "shepherd check" pattern, evoking rural farming culture; an overlaid "hodden grey" pattern references the famous line from his poem "A Man's a Man for A' That"; and two delicate green lines running through the overlay symbolise the fields and meadows where most of his thoughts took shape. The check was first produced in 1959, the year of his 200th birthday.
Can Anyone Wear a Tartan?
Today, anyone can wear most tartan patterns without being born in Scotland. Even though certain tartans are associated with particular families or clans, wearing them is generally seen as a sign of appreciation rather than a claim of belonging.
Only a small number of so-called restricted tartans may be used exclusively with the permission of the clan chief or a specific organisation. Some patterns are tied to exclusive organisations, military units or companies, and are generally only worn by members or those with official permission. A handful of patterns, such as the Balmoral tartan, are reserved exclusively for the British royal family.
Those without family roots in Scotland often choose universal tartans such as Black Watch, Caledonia or Isle of Skye – or simply select a pattern whose colours they particularly love.
Ancient, Antique, Modern, Weathered, Hunting and Dress – What Do These Terms Mean?
Some tartans exist in several colour variations, while the underlying check pattern itself remains identical.
Ancient: This colour palette recreates the look of natural plant and animal dyes used before the invention of chemical dyes in the 19th century. The result is the softer tones typical of "ancient" tartans – moss green and sky blue, along with a more orange-tinted red. A fine example is the Bruce of Kinnaird Ancient tartan.
Modern: Here, bold and rich colours dominate. This variant emerged with modern dyeing methods and is the most commonly used version today. The soft greens and blues become bottle green and navy, while the reds turn scarlet. A fine example is the Galbraith Modern tartan.
Antique: A special colour palette introduced by certain traditional weaving mills, sitting between Ancient and Modern in tone. The colours are slightly muted, lending an elegant, historic appearance. A fine example is the Bruce of Kinnaird Antique tartan.
Neither "Ancient" nor "Antique" means that the pattern itself dates from a particular era – both terms simply describe the style of colouring used.
Weathered mimics fabric that has been exposed to sun, wind and rain over a long period. It features beautifully faded tones: olive green and brown shades, very pale blues and greys, and reds that lean more towards pink than red. Some mills also refer to weathered tartans as "muted". A fine example is the MacLean of Duart Weathered.
Hunting tartans are typically found in shades of green, brown and, in some cases, blue. These colours were well suited to hunting and spending time outdoors. Some clans have no separate hunting variant, since their standard tartans are already predominantly green or brown and blend naturally into the landscape. Today, hunting tartans stand for a subtle, classic look. A fine example is the Chisholm Hunting Modern tartan.
Dress tartans often feature light areas of white or cream to give them a more elaborate appearance. Traditionally worn on festive occasions or by women, they have a particularly elegant look. A fine example is the Stewart Blue Dress tartan. Occasionally, yellow thread is used instead of white – a striking example being the MacLeod Dress Modern tartan.
There is a fitting tartan for every taste: the bold and striking "Stewart Royal", the stylish "Bannockbane Grey", the cool "Stewart Black Modern", the classically elegant "Black Watch", the bright and friendly "Musselburgh", the vibrant "MacLeod Dress Modern", or the playful "Bruce of Kinnaird Ancient", to name just a few.
Tartan Conquers the Fashion World
Vivienne Westwood turned tartan into a symbol of rebellion and individuality throughout the 1970s and into the 1980s. By combining the Scottish classic with provocative bondage elements in her trousers and suits, she created an avant-garde form of fashion. Malcolm McLaren and the Sex Pistols wore her designs with unmistakable cool, permanently shaping the image of punk.
The Bruce of Kinnaird tartan is one of the most iconic Scottish checks. Vivienne Westwood first used it in her "Time Machine" collection (Autumn/Winter 1988/89) – a leap through the centuries that wove different eras into modern dress. She later designed the Westwood MacAndreas tartan for her Austrian husband. In 1993, model Kate Moss wore a legendary tartan wedding dress made from this fabric for the "Anglomania" collection. The Vivienne Westwood label still loves working with tartan today, pairing British tradition with punk attitude.
Fashion designer Alexander McQueen drew on his own Scottish heritage, in particular the official Clan MacQueen tartan (in red, black and yellow), to express themes of historical oppression, violence and cultural identity. His "Highland Rape" collection (Autumn/Winter 1995) brought McQueen worldwide recognition: rather than celebrating cosy, romanticised clichés of Scotland, he sent models down the runway in torn, slashed tartan outfits – a symbol of the brutal historical clearance of the Scottish Highlands by English troops. The collection provoked considerable controversy when it was first presented.
McQueen's "Widows of Culloden" collection (Autumn/Winter 2006/07) was dedicated to the widows of the 1746 Battle of Culloden and took a romantic yet melancholy approach. The designer set his family tartan against delicate lace and tulle as well as rugged leather belts – designs intended to fuse historical pain with poetic beauty. Even after the founder's death, tartan remains a defining element of the Alexander McQueen fashion house.
The classic tartan pattern is now firmly established in the world of fashion. Today, checks appear on runways just as often as in everyday fashion – on blazers, dresses, skirts, coats, trousers, scarves, bags, sneakers and high heels. Notable examples include:
- Burberry – alongside the classic Burberry check, tartan-inspired fabrics regularly appear in tailored coats, scarves and ready-to-wear collections.
- Dior – the Dior Cruise 2025 collection, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, was presented in the historic gardens of Drummond Castle in Perthshire, Scotland, paying tribute to Scottish tradition and collaboration with local craftspeople.
- Chanel – fabrics inspired by Scottish tartans or tweeds regularly appear, particularly in autumn/winter collections. The "Chanel Métiers d'Art 2012/13 – Paris-Édimbourg" collection under Karl Lagerfeld was a tribute to Scotland, blending French haute couture with Scottish romance.
- International fashion houses such as Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Ralph Lauren and Engineered Garments also return to tartan time and again, reinterpreting it in new ways.
Would you like to wear a piece of this history yourself? In our Tartan Collection you'll find original Scottish tartans as kilts, scarves, stoles and blankets.